LAST FEAST

Another lazy morning and late breakfast before we went of to Montparnasse to have lunch at La Coupole restuarant.   We had read about this restuarant and how it was the meeting place for artists, poets and writers in the late 1920s when it was a restuarant and dance hall.  The pillars around the space have been painted by the various artists.  Although modernised is still has lots of character with an art deco theme and is a very popular place to eat by both locals and visitors.   We chose the three course plate of the day menu and are both feeling the effects tonight - not needing any more food.  The food was delicous though.  There were some Germans sitting one side of us and they had the biggest tray of sea food between four of them and then followed up with a main meal. Unbelievable.  Whereas our neighbours on the otherside (an Italian man with his Brazilian wife and her girlfriend) settled for the oysters.  The women didn't eat a main course however after the man saw Ian with his Charolais Tartare (a raw mixed beef dish) the man ordered one too. Then the Germans decided to try it as well.  Ian said it was great and obviously the others enjoyed theirs as well.  All down to experience. 
By the time we came out of the restuarant it was showering and cold wind again so we caught the metro home and called in to the neighbourhood shops to pick up a few last minute goodies.

We are off home in the morning.  The shuttle picks us up at the front door at 7.00 (we hope).  We arrive back in Sydney on Thursday night at 8.00 or thereabouts and will stay at The Centre at Randwick for the night and catch the train to Newcastle to pick up the car from Sean's.  

Ian doing some last minute research in case there is anything he has missed out on.

It is a bit sad saying goodbye to Paris.  We have thoroughly enjoyed this visit.  We have both had a good rest and just mooched around the various places without feeling we had to rush off and do things in case we run out of time.  The long nights have also helped as it is hard to get up early whilst it is still dark. 

A HISTORY STROLL



Steps at Montmarte


We had to be up and showered with breakfast over before 9.00 this morning as the sign on the front door of the apartment block told us the plumber was turning the water off in the building between 9 and 6pm. 
We took a metro to Arenis de Lutece, the remains of a Roman Arena from the late second century, Lutetia was the Roman name for Paris.  It was rediscovered in 1860s and was partly rebuilt in the 1900s.  It was much larger than we expected and the acoustics were still excellent.  Ian tested them out!!!   As we walked out we came across a film crew setting up to film a scene so we stood and watched for a while.  Just as they were doing the second take a lady walked past so they continued filming with her included.   Nearby is Rue Mouffetard, one of the oldest streets (or roads) in the city and was once part of the major thoroughfare in Roman times from Paris to Rome.  The street was paved in great cobblestone that seemed to curve around. 
We then caught another metro (or four) across the city to Montmarte.  We really had our monies worth on the one 1.25 euro ticket.  We had lunch in a little cafe near the long stairs leading up to Sacre Cour.  I then tried to photograph these stairs again but it is not the same in daylight as at night.  For once the sun was shining and there were lots of shadows to contend with.  We then walked up to the top and wandered around Montmarte again.  The artists were out in full force today and there were lots of people around the Tetre area.  Most were taking photos although some were buying art or having their portraits drawn.  There is some great paintings here and the people doing the drawings were great to watch.
We could see the black clouds coming over fast so came back down to the metro and home.  It had already rained on our side of the city by the time we arrived. 

A section of Arenis de Lutece

NEW YEARS EVE - NEW YEARS DAY

Saturday -  We had been to the Grande Palais several times however the line to visit the Stein Collection exhibition has been very long so we went early today and I was able to get in straight away.  This was a great Exhibition of works collected over a number of years by the Stein Family who really gave Matisse, Picasso and Cezzane their great starts.  Gertrude Stein was well known in Paris for her support she gave to writers and artists.  Ian went walking and finished up at the Pompidou Centre and around near Hotel de Ville.  He was waiting when I came out.   It had started to shower and we decided to walk back to the apartment for lunch.  We were not far along the way when the rain really came down along with the wind, it was very cold and miserable.  After lunch Ian went off again to Musee Monet.  I decided to give this a miss and read for a while before going for a walk around the neighbourhood and having a coffee.  It was very busy around the shopping area and interesting just sitting in the Cafe people watching.  There seemed to be an air of expectancy about.

We had decided we would try a Restaurant 'Les Cocotte' which is nearby for dinner.  They don't take bookings so we left about 8.45pm to walk around and when we got there the queue was out the door and they were handing out champagne to those waiting for a table.  We gave this a miss and walked away from the crowded streets and finished up back at a restaurant we have been to last time we were here and had a wonderful dinner.  The place was absolutely packed and by the time we finished our three courses we had been moved around the tables three times making room for parties of people that were coming in.  It was fun really and we got to speak English to an American girl who had a MA from Queensland Uni (online) and her friend was French but managed an American Football team.  Interesting.

It was just after 11.30 when we left the restaurant and we walked quickly down to the Eiffel Tower arriving in time to cheer in the New Year along with thousands of others.  No fireworks though.  Thankfully we had decided we would not go to Champs Elysee which is where most of the action happens.  Tonight we saw where 360,000 people saw the New Year in there. 



Celebrating the arrival of 2012. 

 Sunday.   It was a very late night for us oldies and we slept till day light - 8.30.  I was happy to stay in bed for a while.  Ian went off and brought the croissants for breakfast or brunch - we certainly didn't need more after last nights dinner.   We sat around reading till around 2.00 and walked along the river
and then up to Rue Madelaine and found the Musee Pinacotheque of Paris where there was a Giacometti and the Etruscans Exhibition on.  This was extremely interesting.  We had seen Giacometti's Sculptures in Sydney some time ago however this exhibition included many art works back as far as the 9th Century BC and explained Giacometti's search and final works. 

We then walked along Rue Rivoli which was crowded with people.   There are many souvenir shops along here with cheap scarfs, hats, t-shirts etc.  Each time we crossed a street we were in the fine misty rain and so when we came to a metro station we caught a metro back.   We found some quiche in a Patisserie nearby and came back to our nice warm little apartment. 



A Grey Overcast day but the gold still shines. 



BACK TO LUXEMBOURG

It rained heavily during the night and this morning we woke to a nice clear morning.  After breakfast we set off back to the Luxembourg Gardens and I went to a Cezzane Exhibition in the Museum.  I feel so lucky to have the opportunity to see some of these great artists' work.  Whilst I was in the Museum Ian went off to Saint Sulpice church and had a look through and arrived back just as I was walking out.  Good timing.   We then walked a few blocks to see Val-de-Grace which is a church and is supposedly the nicest in Paris.  I was keen to see it because my favourite is Saint Chapelle and it would take a lot to beat that.   After walking down a few side streets we came to a locked gate along with other people who were trying to visit it as well. No opening hours to be seen.  Later we discovered it is no longer open to the public every day only a few set times during the week.



There are little back lanes everywhere, this one is in Saint Germain.
I love the cobbled streets that seem to glisten in the wet.

 We then back tracked and found a little cafe for lunch.  It was right out of the way but must have been well known and popular judging by the prices.  We settled for a soup and small cup of coffee. It was starting to sprinkle with fine misty rain when we came out however we walk to Saint Germain and the rain seemed to get heavier as we went.  I was getting very cold so relented and bought a beanie in a bargain shop.  Certainly not the most stylish look but it kept my head warm.   We have been carting umbrellas with us for two weeks and haven't used them and, of course, today we didn't bother when it was such a nice morning.  We gave up the idea of walking home and caught the metro as by 3.30 we were feeling very cold. 

Tour Montparnasse

Ian was ready for a good fast walk this morning and I was ready to have a 'me' morning so he set off and thought he would find Roland Garros however didn't manage to find it.  In the meantime I went off for a walk around the neighbourhood and had a coffee.  I looked in a very luxurious linen shop and could have spent a fortune in there.  The lady spoke very good English and in the end I said I needed to go away and think about colours etc.  I had to get out somehow. 

After lunch we caught the metro out to Montparnasse and joined the queue to go to the top of the tower (tour).  It was freezing standing in the line and we were both glad to get into the building.  The lift takes you up to the 56th floor and then you walk up the next three levels to the viewing platform on the roof.  Again it was very cold however the view is spectacular - probably better than from the top of the Eiffel Tower.  Ian went here the other day and was happy to come again and point out the many places we've walked or been to around Paris.  My feet are starting to feel I have walked the lot.



Looking towards the Eiffel Tower from Tour Montparnasse. 
The gold dome building on right is The Invalides.



After we came back down we went for a wander through Lafayette, mainly to warm up.  This is not the main store however much easier to get around.  We then went and found a coffee shop before walking around Montparnasse and then on to Luxembourg Gardens.  By the time we reached there the gates were closing for the day so we walked around the perimeter and looked at some photos on display along the fence line.   We then walked to the metro and came on home.

Tonight is the first night we have been late (6.00pm) enough to photograph the Eiffel Tower with the lights on from the street we walk down between the metro station and our apartment.  It was easier to do it on the way home than go out again.   We bought some Italian food from the deli next door and an eclair each for dinner. 



Walking down Rue Saint Dominique



Designer Window Shopping

The cleaning lady comes on Wednesday to service the apartment so we tidied up and were out before she arrived as she is Columbian and only speaks Spanish and French which it makes it difficult to communicate. 

We walked up towards Champs Elysee along Avenue King George V.  This is the street with a store for every designer you can image and more 'bling' than I have ever seen.  I am still trying to come to terms with a pair of earrings for sale in one window for 77,000 euros.  Who would spend that?  Obviously some people do because there was plenty of items with price tags like that and many others without a price.  Ian kept telling me 'if you have to ask the price, you don't buy in places like that'.  I don't want to ask the price, it is outragous.   We finally made it to Champs Elysee and found the Monoprix store (the bargain shop) where I wanted to stock up on some things and further down the street found a Virgin Mega Store.  Ian found another book he has been looking for so we both came back to the apartment satisfied with our morning out and about.   As we walked back we past the Champs Elysee Palace where President Nicholas Sarkozy resides.   This is guarded on all sides and no one is allowed to walk on the footpath around the palace.  It is a full block with high fences and we watched the changing of the guards at 12.00.  One of the guards was a lady and I was watching her, not realising she was about finished her shift.  She must have been desperate to go to the loo, she was standing crossed legged and looking very awkward.



It doesn't matter what the shop sells the windows are always amazingly well dressed. 
This is a perfume shop but a plumbing supply shop would be just as well fitted out. 

Tonight we went downstairs to a little restuarant for dinner.  The front of the shop is a deli with a meals area at the back with bar high tables and stools.  The menu was puzzling so we picked dishes in the middle price range.   Both meals were interesting.  Mine was lots of Spanish ham (like proscuito) thin slices of cheese and a thick jelly and a side salad.  It was delicous.  Ian had an egg, the same ham, potato, chorizo and mushrooms.  The desserts were extravagantly rich and very yummy. 

A FOGGY DAY



Il de la Cite with Notre Dame fading into the mist or fog

 We have spent the day completely engulfed in a fog or mist today.  It was great for taking photos and we caught the metro out to Jardin des Plantes where there were lots of buildings housing various scientific and nature subjects.  There is also a zoo.   We just walked around and I took lots of photos making the most of the fog.  Later we walked along the Quay back towards Il de la Cite and had lunch at Saint Germain.  I was so cold that I just had to get home and get warm so we came back to the apartment on the metro (there is no heating on these either) and warmed up.  Neither of us felt like going out again.  Today is the coldest we have been and we probably should have come back home before going to far and put on more clothes.  We have been fine walking up until now.  We'll know tomorrow.